|
The staff at Otels hope you enjoy the following Travel Ideas
from travel writer (and enthusiastic naturalist) Mark Kolakowski
Best wishes on your next trip to New York state!
The Finger Lakes
region of New York
By Mark
Kolakowski
Copyright © 2006-2009 by the author
The picturesque Fingers Lakes region of western New York
state lies between Syracuse and Rochester.
The
region is best known for its dozens of small wineries, some of which now produce
world-class interpretations of traditional European styles. To
supplement their income, a growing number of wineries have opened
dining and lodging establishments on their grounds.
In an equally interesting crosscurrent, the luxury
Belhurst Hotel (an
1880's stone castle with 14 guest rooms in Geneva, NY overlooking
Seneca Lake in the heart of the Finger Lakes) recently opened its own
vineyards and a large wine shop, selling its own label exclusively.
Wonderful to visit from spring through fall, here are
some activities to consider in the Finger Lakes region:
Finger Lakes
Region Wine Route
- For wine lovers, there are dozens of
wineries to visit. My personal favorites are
Dr. Konstantin Frank
of Hammondsport and
Hermann J. Wiemer of Dundee.
Both produce outstanding Rieslings and Gewurztraminers. Dr.
Frank also produces a noteworthy Rkatsiteli, a varietal
indigenous to the Caucasus region and reputedly the most
widely-grown wine grape in the world, but rare in the U.S.
- I also recommend the Rieslings at
Anthony Road Winery
and the dry Alsatian-style Reserve Riesling at
Heron Hill.
Sheldrake Point produces an unusual and interesting
Gewurztraminer. McGregor
is the only other area producer of Rkatsiteli, and it is very
good.
- Pre-recession, many
Finger Lakes wineries undertook expensive building
programs, erecting imposing tasting rooms and retail spaces,
also including cafes (most are only open for lunch or for
special events).
- The Keuka Lake
wine trail, which ascends a steep hill north of
Hammondsport, offers spectacular views.
- Hammondsport features both the
Glenn H. Curtiss
Museum and the
Pleasant
Valley
Wine
Company
Museum (free),
both very worthwhile. Curtiss was a local boy who became a
premier motorcycle designer, manufacturer and racer circa 1900,
before becoming one of the leading pioneers of aviation. The
wine museum has the most complete display related to the local
industry.
- Around
Ithaca are
Buttermilk
Falls and
Taughannock
Falls.
The latter are especially impressive, the tallest in the east,
even surpassing
Niagara Falls.
-
Watkins Glen State Park and the various waterfalls in the
town of
Montour Falls
to the immediate south are also worth visiting. Just note that
the falls in
Montour Falls are at their peak in spring
with the snow melt, and can be a slight trickle by mid-summer,
even during a very rainy summer such as that of 2009.
- With the publication of Team of Rivals,
a book about Lincoln’s cabinet,
visitor traffic is way up at Secretary of State
William H. Seward’s
home in Auburn. Among the
outstanding tour guides there (as of my 2006 visit) is a direct
descendant of Seward named Ray Messenger, who bears an uncanny
resemblance to his famed ancestor.
- Auburn also has a
historic home associated with abolitionist
Harriet Tubman.
-
Montezuma National Wildlife Refuge (free), northeast of
Seneca Falls, is home to Bald Eagles and is a major
migration stopover and breeding grounds for waterfowl.
- Seneca Falls, the site of a major votes-for-women
convention in the 19th century, is home to the
Women’s Rights National
Historic Park, which includes the home of Elizabeth Cady
Stanton. You also can see the double locks of the
Cayuga-Seneca
Canal
in town, which move boats across a 49-foot change in elevation.
- North of Watkins Glen,
Castel Grisch offers
a tasty German menu for lunch daily, and also is open for dinner, with a
German buffet, Thursday-Saturday. (See view from Castel Grisch
below.) North of Hammondsport,
Heron Hill serves
very good flatbread pizzas. Both offer imposing views of the
vineyard and lake views from high atop hillsides.

- The
Pleasant Valley Inn, on route 54 south of Hammondsport, is
an excellent fine dining choice, open Thursday-Sunday nights in
season. The nearby San Carlos
restaurant offers above-average Mexican cuisine at budget
prices, specializing in Sonoran dishes. The
Switz Inn on route 54
north of Hammondsport is good value no-frills eatery on the
Keuka Lake waterfront.
- A local eating institution on routes 5 &
20 in Waterloo is
Mac’s Drive-In, a place for a cheap, quick bite, open Memorial
Day-Labor Day.
Just
West of the Finger Lakes
-
Letchworth
State Park, west of the
Finger Lakes proper, is a little-known scenic gem,
noteworthy for its series of waterfalls.
-
Stony Brook State Park, a much smaller preserve east of
Letchworth in Dansville, is another scenic wonder, offering a
river gorge trail with 3 waterfalls (one of which is pictured
below) along the route.

- Note that your admission ticket to one New York State park
normally is good for entrance to any number of other parks on
the same date.
Buffalo-Rochester Region (including Niagara Falls)
- Niagara Falls
itself is within an easy daytrip from the
Finger Lakes.
- Old
Fort Niagara stands where the Niagara River drains into
Lake
Ontario, and is a
striking historic site.
- In Buffalo, the
Theodore Roosevelt Inaugural National Historic Site is the
home where Roosevelt took the oath of office after the
assassination of William McKinley in the same city.
- Enthusiasts for the architecture of
Frank Lloyd Wright
can visit two of his projects, the Darwin Martin house in Buffalo and Graycliffs, Martin’s summer home on the shore of Lake Erie
in nearby Derby,
southwest of the city.
- Closer to the Finger Lakes, the
Genesee Country Museum
in Mumford is one of the outstanding museum villages of its type
in North America.
- The city of
Rochester
is a short drive from the lakes. It has an imposing waterfall of
its own downtown, where the
Genesee
River
runs.
- The
George Eastman House in Rochester combines the
home of the Kodak founder with a museum of photography and
camera technology.
- Near the Eastman House is the
Memorial Art Gallery of
the University of Rochester, a fine small museum with an
extensive program of free concerts.
Lake
Ontario
Shoreline
-
Sodus
Bay
with its huge marina is a postcard setting.
- At
Chimney Bluffs State Park (free), on
Lake Ontario
east of Rochester,
the cliffs have been sculpted by the elements into fantastic
shapes, as you can see below.

- Continue farther east to
Little Sodus Bay,
near the town of Fair
Haven, which is an equally picturesque
maritime locale. Head north on Fancher Avenue for some sweet
treats at the locally-famous
Fly by Night Cookie Company (and Miniature Museum) run out of
a local home.
- The
Sterling Nature Center (free) in the town of
Sterling
has a wonderful lakefront setting and miles of trails. It is
noteworthy for its resident bald eagles and ospreys, as well as
its colony of roughly 60 pairs of breeding great blue herons in
the spring and early summer.
- The city of Oswego
is notable for Fort
Ontario, which saw action in the War of 1812
and which housed European Jewish refugees after World War II,
the H. Lee White Marine
Museum, and several locks on the
Oswego
Canal, which connects
Lake Ontario with the Erie Canal.
Arrive at the right time and you can see boats being raised or
lowered. Continue south into
Fulton
if you want to see two more locks up close.
- An enjoyable dining spot just west of town
on route 89 is Rudy’s
Lakeside Drive-In (open March-September). Cheap and tasty,
with an emphasis on fried seafood, but offering much more. It
draws big crowds, but service is very fast. Note that indoor
seating is very limited, but there are ample picnic tables
outside (some under a pavilion) at the edge of Lake Ontario.
- East of Oswego, turning north off route
104, is the Derby Hill Bird Observatory (free) where large numbers of
migratory raptors (eagles, hawks and falcons) can be viewed in
the spring as they move north along the coast of Lake Ontario.
In any season it is a scenic place for a walk.
- Also on the lakeshore in the town of
Mexico is
Mexico
Point
Park (free) with
ruins of earlier stone buildings on the site.
- For a real treat in season, look for a
peach orchard on route 3 in the town of Mexico that sells
sugar donut peaches,
a small, oddly shaped variety. The red sugar donuts are much
sweeter than their yellow counterparts.
- Visitors may be surprised to find that the
Finger Lakes
region has several pockets of
Amish, and that their
characteristic black horse-drawn buggies occasionally can be
encountered on area roads.
Utica-Cooperstown-Oneonta Region
- In Utica, the
Munson-Williams-Proctor
Arts Institute (free) is a fine small museum of American
art, with some exhibits in a Victorian home once owned by
members of the founding family. Its most noteworthy holding is
the four-painting allegorical cycle “The Voyage of Life” by
Thomas Cole.
- Next door, at
St. Volodymyr’s
Ukrainian Catholic Church, ladies of the parish sell homemade
pierogi (dumplings) and stuffed cabbage on Friday afternoon.
While they sell primarily for takeout, they often can
accommodate people who want to eat on site.
- Cooperstown is best known as the home of the
National Baseball Hall of
Fame and Museum. However, it also is worth a trip for the Fenimore
Art Museum, the
Farmers’ Museum and
the summer Glimmerglass
Opera.
- Outside
Cooperstown,
Brewery Ommegang makes award-winning Belgian-style beers in an
imposing structure (see below) patterned after traditional farmhouse
breweries in that country. Free tours and tastings are offered
daily.

- On the outskirts of Oneonta on route 7 in
Emmons/Davenport, the
Brooks House of Bar-B-Q is a good stop for hearty,
inexpensive eating. Chicken and pork ribs are the featured menu
items.
To make
hotel reservations
in towns in the scenic Finger Lakes region of western New York state, please
visit
NYC-Hotels.com.
We welcome your comments or suggestions
about this
Travel Report:
-
Please tell us how to
reach you:
-
|
|