MANTUA (MANTOVA)
TRAVEL  IDEAS

Otels hope you enjoy the following Travel Ideas
from travel writer Douglas Lucius
Best wishes on your next trip!

 

Mantua (Mantova): a Renaissance Vision
 
By Douglas Lucius
Copyright © Otels, 2006

Mantua is a wonderful, charming town, perhaps not as well-known as Florence or Venice, but nonetheless the archetypical Italian town we all dream of.  Tall towers, magnificent domed churches, arcades and palaces of rival families are painted in ochres, deep reds and powder blues that not only delight the eye but have a great tactile appeal as well.  Its Renaissance center is actually a peninsula on a lake.  In fact, two lakes – the Inferiore and the Superiore – bound the town center.  From the Duke’s Palace and the Albergo San Lorenzo, amongst other places, you can enjoy captivating views of boats on these lakes.
 

Getting There
 
Mantua is 40 kilometers south of Verona. Trains operate frequently to and from Verona and Milan; traveling south to Bologna or Modena by train is much more difficult. There is also bus service (since the A22 has exits for Mantua). Finally, there is an airport 20 kilometers away in Villafranca.
 

Tourist Attractions
 
Mantua’s prime attraction is the Duke’s Palace (Palazzo Ducale). Its triumphant centerpiece is the Camera degli Spossi (marriage registration room, sometimes called the Camera Picta), the walls and ceiling of which are one of Andrea Mantegna’s masterpieces. The paintings here portray a proud and noble family at its finest, along with their dogs and horses. Details in the scenery, towns, churches and palaces in the background are masterful as well. The wall paintings lead upward to a circular fresco that is not only a symbol of this city but also captures the Italian Renaissance at its most stupendous. The Duke’s Palace also has a large collection of other paintings (including works by Rubens) as well as Belgian tapestries, frescoes and gardens.
      
My second-favorite attraction was the San Andrea Apostollo church, south of the Duke’s Palace, entered just around the corner from Piazza delle Erbe. Its grand but simple design comprises a barrel vault that extends outside the building to the portico. The trompe l’oeil details of this barrel vault ceiling contain shades of ochre and blue, with frescoes in and near the dome.
    
The Cathedral is next to the Duke’s Palace. Modest compared to the Church of San Andrea Apostollo, it is an unusual design, Greek in many elements, and contains some powerful paintings at the dome’s base.
  
Palazzo d’Arco is in the Palladian tradition, and is surrounded by a number of good restaurants.

The Palazzo Te is an architectural masterpiece containing different illusions, and paintings by Guilio Romano.
 
The Museo della Città, or Palazzo San Sebastian, contains more treasures by Mantegna and others.

Piazza delle Erbe captures in my mind the classic images of an Italian town. There are many restaurants, snack bars and gelatarias along the sides.

   
Hotels in Mantua (Mantova)
  
There are no five-star hotels in Mantua, but there are several fine four-star hotels:

The best without a doubt is the Albergo San Lorenzo, located behind Piazza delle Erbe in the town center. It is lavishly furnished with antiques and comfortable large beds. Some rooms are quite large and even have terraces. All rooms cost the same 130 Euros, and the hotel assigns the larger ones to those who reserve earliest. The 5th floor terrace offers a wonderful view of the city center’s sites, which alone seems worth the price of the room.
 
The Albergo Rechigi on Via Calvi near the center of town offers a modern design, with equally large rooms. It costs a bit less than the San Lorenzo.  Hotel Casa Poli on Via Garabaldi is the most modern of the three and is about a ten-minute walk from the town center.
 
Three-Star lodging places include the following: 
 
Hotel Italia at the Piazza Cavalotti lies on the edge of the old city center, a good if not great location. It offers comfortable rooms and large beds, and has a cheerful and helpful staff. It may be the best value amongst the three-star hotels.
  
Hotel Broletto is in a great location, between the Duke’s Palace and the Piazza delle Erbe. The rooms are just OK, but include some local features that make them more attractive. Rooms rates here are a little less than at the Hotel Italia, but all in all, this hotel may also offer less value.
 
Hotel Ducale is a high-end three-star place, with spacious room sizes, a garden café, luxurious waiting room, plus cheerful English-speaking staff. Its prices are high for a three-star, but it offers good value.
 
Albergo Bianchi, Hotel ABC, and Albergo Apollo are three-star hotels near the train station. All are adequate and Hotel ABC even offers Wi-Fi connections.  They offer the convenience of the train station without being too far from the downtown center, but are on a noisy character-less street. There is a lot to be said for staying downtown.

   
Restaurants & Refreshments

The best restaurants are the Il Vigno Trattoria dei Martini, next to the Palazzo D’Arco, which serves traditional cuisine; and Aquilo Nero, at Vicolo Branosi 4, whose menu contains both traditional and nouvelle cuisine.  For one of the best dining experiences in Italy, Dal Pescatore de Canetto sull Oglio is highly recommended. It is in Runate, 38 km from Mantua. Call 0376 723 001 for arrangements.

Economical diners may prefer to eat at the Caffé 14 Brasserie on the Piazza delle Erbe, which offers great sandwiches and salads. The Osteria Pizzeria delle Erbe next door is a very popular restaurant. The Pizzeria Bella Napoli on the Piazza Cavalotti is another popular spot.
 
For a late-night drink, the Caffè Sociale on the Piazza Cavalotti is a popular spot.

   
     We welcome your comments or suggestions about the above Travel Report: